Reed describes Smith as “pioneering fluidity in every aspect they’re really rewriting the rules.” The designer tenderly shares how this plays out in intimate settings – “especially now that they’re exploring laces and more dainty, quite romantic and sultry materials, they really have that hands-on approach to everything. “And this beautiful, poetic and very queer expression that Sam is about to continually open and express through what they put on their back.” “And,” the designer adds, “it’s about looking at the past.” Reed’s own influences intersect with those of Smith: The rawness of Mapplethorpe. Reed believes Smith is arriving at a look that embodies contemporary fluidity. Standing in a set of clouds, they wore a custom black blazer – deceptively simple, with a subtly voluminous shape. In February, Smith sang the Des’ree song “I’m Kissing You” for Harris Reed’s autumn/winter 2022 genderfluid demi-couture show. It was the latest in a series of intimate-but-mega fashion moments. Smith wore a white vest with their own portrait on it, drawn by Pol Anglada, in which they look like a 1970s gay clone, posing with cheek burrowed into bicep, reminiscent of the logo for celebrated New York discotheque Paradise Garage.
In July, they performed an intimate set downstairs at the designer’s Soho boutique to celebrate the 50th anniversary of London Pride and launch a limited-edition capsule collection.
The shirt Smith is wearing is also JW Anderson, with the Oscar Wilde line “the secret of life is in art” printed in overlapping colours. Smith has also bonded with fashion designer Jonathan Anderson their latest JW Anderson acquisition is a pigeon clutch, as literal as it sounds, which opens by the wing. There’s this beautifully deeply rooted confidence that I find so admirable.” “They really embrace their body, who they are, what they’re putting out into the world. “Very, almost to the point where I have to force myself to see other people sometimes. I ask if they’re comfortable being alone. Those early songs convey the ache of solitude, whereas the current vibe is flying solo. And while their debut In the Lonely Hour (the sole album to go platinum in both the US and UK in 2014) may have made them the most famous lonely person in the world, something has changed. Smith is not currently in an exclusive relationship. I want to put my ashes into fireworks, then save a little behind, put them into a diamond and give them to my one true love.” “Has anyone ever put ashes into jewellery?” Smith asks. Smith lights up when Bunney describes the heavy bronze bust that Hollywood legend Katherine Hepburn sculpted of Spencer Tracey then took with her on all her travels. “Over the last few years, as I’ve become confident in my skin, I’ve got loads of wonderful romantic attention.
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